From the city of Wanaka on New Zealand’s South Island, the Ohau (pronounced: “oh-how”) Ski Club field is about a two-hour drive. “Ski club fields” in New Zealand are small ski areas that are often only open a few days a week and are operated by volunteers. Ohau is a small club course style ski area that has a fixed grip double chair and plate lift. Also, Ohau is in a remote area of the South Island that gets massive snowfall and not many winter visitors.
Elijah Teter, Kinger (Rob Kingwill) and I did our last piping run in SnowparkNZ around 2:30pm on August 22nd and headed into the town of Wanaka to collect a few things before heading north to Ohau. After a recent 50 cm (about 20 in) snowfall, Ohau was closed for two days due to poor access road conditions. The area was primed with a bit of powder and we were ready to bag it. Our journey meandered north through farmland and then into the mountains south of Mount Cook (New Zealand’s highest peak). We reached the shores of Lake Ohau at sunset and just in time for dinner at the Lake Ohau lodge. We gathered around tables with other lodge guests for a family-style dinner, and everyone shared their excitement for the upcoming powder day in Ohau. After dinner we put on our trunks and headed to the hot tubs. Another dark and clear night offered some excellent stargazing and we all shared our amazement at the vast New Zealand sky. There aren’t many houses or lights on New Zealand’s South Island to blot out the views of the night sky; The starry nights here are surreal.
In the morning, we woke up at sunrise and strolled to the shores of Lake Ohau to enjoy the morning twilight. After taking in some of New Zealand’s amazingly wild scenery, it was time for a classic Kiwi breakfast: poached eggs on toast with bacon and half a grilled tomato with Parmesan cheese. After refueling at the breakfast table and Elijah’s first taste of Vegemite (a brown yeasty paste Kiwis eat on toast), we made our way up the ski area access road. To give you an idea of what an access road to a small ski area in New Zealand is like, let me enlighten you: dirt, single lane with river crossings, slides on one side and a steep drop on the other.
To our amazement, there were only a couple other cars in the parking lot when we got to the base of the area, and no one was in line for the lift waiting for the first chair for the cherry pow-pow. “Awesome,” Kinger squealed from the passenger seat and Elj and I were in total agreement. Boots on, lift tickets attached and out of the saddle for our first day in Ohau. On the first chair ride, our eyes feasted on all the fresh, expansive snow ready to be tracked, and only a few people in sight. Looking behind us into the valley offered an amazing view of Lake Ohau and the surrounding mountains.
After a few lapses in the saddle we did a short hike up to the upper ridge to see some other lines. The views from the top of the ridge were the epitome of views of the New Zealand Southern Alps. Looking north towards Mount Cook and west towards beech forest and Alaska-like terrain; the views were amazing and they stopped the boots. The run from the ridge that followed kept us walking back for more. We came off the ledges and through open dust fields side by side yelling excitedly all the way down. The best part of it all was the lack of people in the snow all day. We worked line after line, working our way from open dust fields to narrow slides and cliffs until our legs could take no more.
Photos: http://www.allstartrips.com/ohau
Thank you Ohau for keeping it real and really fun. We will be back and we promise to bring just a few friends to share in the fun…
If you’re interested in trying New Zealand powder, the best time to go is late August/early September. Check out some of the New Zealand freeride tours offered by All Star Adventures (www.allstartrips.com). All Star offers tours and camping on the South Island of New Zealand that will put you in the snow with some of the best riders in the world.